Jersey — it is both a type of sportswear and a knitted fabric of sporting origin. Originally, it was material for rugby and soccer jerseys, which Coco Chanel adapted for everyday dresses in the 1910s.
The name traces back to Jersey, on the English Channel, where local fishermen for centuries wore tight, hand-knitted wool sweaters that were both elastic and resistant to sea moisture. It was these qualities—stretch and breathability—that made jersey knitwear a comfortable material for athletic wear. By the late 19th century, it was used for rugby shirts and football jerseys of English clubs, where the fabric needed to hold its shape during intense activity without restricting the body.
The transition of jersey from a sporting context to high fashion is credited to Coco Chanel. In 1916, she began using jersey—a fabric previously considered exclusively masculine, utilitarian, and athletic—for women’s everyday clothing. Her decision was driven by practical necessity: during World War I, silk and other traditional fabrics became scarce, and jersey, being inexpensive and accessible, allowed for the creation of form-fitting yet unrestricted silhouettes—a direct contrast to the corset-driven fashion of the early 20th century.
Today, the word maintains a dual identity. On one hand, jersey remains a technical term for a sports jersey featuring a number and team emblem—an item that communicates athletic identity and club affiliation. On the other, it is a general term for knit fabric within the fashion industry, spanning from basic t-shirts to haute couture dresses.
Photo: New Balance for FC Porto
